| The 5.0 Mustang is one of the most popular cars | | | | require a rearend gear change as well. Which is an |
| found today at the drag strip. Not without good reason | | | | extra expense that I'll discuss in a later chapter. |
| either. The Mustangs good power to weight ratio from | | | | On the lighter is better topic, most factory wheels are |
| the factory. Along with the extremely large availability | | | | ungodly heavy. Changing to a lightweight aluminum |
| of both factory and aftermarket parts. Make her a | | | | wheel like a Centerline or Weld Draglights, or if you're in |
| great platform from which to build a fine racing | | | | the money a set of Bogarts. Will definitely shave some |
| machine. However the Fox-body Mustang is not | | | | time off your 60' ET, as much as 1/10 second or more |
| without its shortcomings (nobody's perfect). The non | | | | on some cars. Most wheels will require longer wheel |
| parallel four link rear suspension, nose heavy weight | | | | studs to properly secure them to your ride. Safety |
| bias, and several other factors. Leave a lot of room | | | | rules say the stud must extend at least the diameter |
| for improvement, thankfully most of them are easily | | | | of the stud (1/2") into the hex portion of the lugnut. |
| remedied. | | | | Radials are usually run tubeless, slicks and ET street |
| Lets begin with the tires, the tires are the main link | | | | type tires are generally run with tubes inside. Running |
| between the car and the road. Making them the single | | | | tubes requires you to run screws through the bead. To |
| most important part of getting your Mustang to launch | | | | prevent tire creep from ripping out your valvestems. |
| correctly. The factory supplied rubber, Goodyear | | | | 10-12 self tapping S.S. screws equally spaced around |
| Eagles on most models. Are a fine tire, but not exactly | | | | the bead on BOTH sides of the wheel should do the |
| optimized for drag racing. The short sidewall height, | | | | trick. Make sure the screws you use are long enough |
| combined with the relatively hard rubber compound. | | | | to go through the rim but not so long as to puncture |
| Mean lots of wheelspin and black marks on the | | | | the tire. Something around a #12 hex head x 1/2"-3/4" |
| ground. So a change to a dedicated drag racing type | | | | length should be good, (make sure you check though). |
| tire is in order. For street driven cars drag radials are | | | | Be sure to have your new wheels and tires |
| hard to beat, on a strictly track only ride racing slicks | | | | professionally balanced before hitting the race track. |
| are what you want. Mustangs can use either a 26" or | | | | Self sticking wheel weights work better than the |
| 28" tall tire with only slight massaging of the inner | | | | hammer on kind most tire stores use. You might want |
| fenderwells. Use a 15x8" wheel with a 5.5" | | | | to pick some up and bring them with you when you go |
| backspacing and you should be able to fit a 275/60x15 | | | | to have them mounted. |
| radial or a 28x12.5-15LT ET Street or a 28x10.5-15 slick. | | | | Now that your Mustang has new shoes, its time to air |
| The difference is in the way the tires are measured, | | | | them up. Buy a high quality tire pressure gauge made |
| slicks are listed by tread width, the rest are given by | | | | specifically for drag racing. The old pencil/stick type |
| section width(overall width). | | | | gauge is just not going to cut it anymore! My |
| While a 28" tall tire, like the above sizes is best for a | | | | recommendation is to start on the high side of the |
| high horsepower, supercharged, turbocharged or | | | | pressure range (Do not exceed maximum pressure) |
| nitrous car. If your ride is mostly stock in the | | | | and gradually lower the pressure 1-2 psi at a time. |
| horsepower department, a 28" tire would definitely be | | | | Keep checking your 60' times, look for the pressure |
| overkill. One thing to consider is the weight of your tire, | | | | that gives you the quickest time. After that you can |
| taller = heavier. Once your car launches that same tire | | | | vary pressures by 1/2 pound at a time to perfect your |
| now becomes a liability, because of rotational inertia. In | | | | ride. Be wary of the fact that a drag slick with low air |
| other words if your car hooks fine with a 26" tire and | | | | pressure is a hairy ride that takes a little getting used |
| does'nt spin excessively. It will actually be quicker with | | | | to, be careful! By now you should have lowered your |
| the smaller and lighter tire. If your budget constraints | | | | ET by several tenth's of a second at least. Keep |
| limit you to one set of tires the shorter tires are | | | | reading along with me and I'll bring you my best racing |
| probably the way you want to go. A 28" tire will | | | | tips and techniques to make you the king of the strip! |