| After researching this topic in detail in order to solve a | | | | fork forward about an inch in order to hook the cable. |
| problem I had with my mustangs I figured I would share | | | | Your FWA will have also to be screwed in all the way |
| all the information I had gathered so others may learn | | | | in order for the cable to hook. The problem that you |
| from my experience. | | | | will run into with prying it onto the fork is twofold: |
| In between adding an intake, nitrous, and exhaust | | | | You'll have no adjustability to dial in more slack. |
| components, it seems that nary a thought is given to | | | | There is a HIGH probability that it will be too tight, |
| replacing the factory clutch-cable arrangement. That is, | | | | causing constant engagement, and clutch wear. |
| until the cable breaks or wears out. Then it seems like | | | | This is the appeal of multi hook quadrants such as |
| a good idea to replace it with one of the performance | | | | UPR or Steeda. They are able to work with either |
| variety. However, there are many options out there | | | | adjustable, or non adjustable cables. Quadrants such |
| and between opinions on the internet, in addition to all | | | | as BBK, FRPP, and Pro 5.0 really can only work with |
| the magazine articles/adds, it can be confusing as to | | | | adjustable cables. Likewise, quadrants made from |
| which direction you should go. I will attempt to explain | | | | Maximum Motorsports and Fiore are designed to work |
| the pro's and con's, as well as the differences | | | | with OEM cables and can only be used with non |
| between many of these choices. | | | | adjustable cables. Your firewall adjuster will not be able |
| Let's begin with the stock setup itself. The plastic stock | | | | to take up all the slack that will be present if using a |
| clutch quadrant that the factory gave your car is | | | | standard throw quadrant with an adjustable cable. |
| garbage. This plastic part is known to flex under the | | | | Speaking of which, we come to the final piece in this |
| pressure of a heavier than stock clutch and has plastic | | | | puzzle. The stock quadrant performs two functions: it |
| teeth that wear down allowing your clutch to self | | | | pulls the clutch cable to engage the clutch, and it |
| adjust itself into positions that causes the clutch to | | | | adjusts tension in the cable in order to maintain proper |
| wear improperly and makes shifting difficult. While an | | | | adjustment of the cable by way of a ratcheting tooth |
| after market quadrant really can't fix an ailing clutch, | | | | mechanism next to the quadrant. With an after market |
| proper adjustment of the cable is essential to longer | | | | aluminum quadrant you lose this automatic adjustment. |
| clutch life. | | | | The problem is resolved by a fire wall adjuster. A fire |
| Then there is the cable itself. The cable is non | | | | wall adjuster works by replacing the black rubber |
| adjustable and has a rubber spacer that mates up | | | | bushing that normally comes on your cable, and can |
| with the firewall and holds the cable in alignment with | | | | increase or decrease the space between the cable |
| the quadrant. It's construction is also quite vital, but we'll | | | | housing and the firewall by turning the adjust clockwise |
| cover that in a few minutes. | | | | or counter-clockwise. This increases or decreases the |
| So now you know what you've got, but where to go | | | | available working length of the cable, thereby, |
| from here? With such a plethora of choices, how do | | | | increasing or decreasing tension on the cable, and |
| you know what you need? Many companies offer | | | | allowing the user to maintain proper clutch adjustment. |
| packages that include everything you need to | | | | While there are minute differences between the |
| complete the conversion; quadrant, cable and firewall | | | | different manufacturers FWA, they are, for the most |
| adjuster. However, something that you need to know | | | | part, the same. Some click when you adjust them, |
| is that these packages are NOT all the same. | | | | some have one or two mounting screws, others |
| The first choice you have to make is if you want an | | | | simply screw in and out. Fiore has the highest rating, |
| adjustable cable, or non adjustable OEM cable. This | | | | however, in my opinion, any one that is on sale or you |
| decision will affect the quadrants that are compatible | | | | can acquire easily will do. I'm using a BBK FWA and |
| with your setup. I've spent time talking with several | | | | have no complaints. |
| mustang owners who are very knowledgeable on this | | | | Now that you know all about the individual |
| subject and the consensus is that an adjustable cable | | | | components, the next question is where to buy? Well |
| will make for a "harder" clutch due to the increase in | | | | that's really all up to you. You can purchase a |
| drag due to the inferior construction of the cables. The | | | | complete kit from any of the manufacturers mentioned |
| cable on top is your run of the mill adjustable cable, | | | | here; BBK, Steeda, Maximum Motorsports, FRPP, UPR, |
| while the one on the bottom is an OEM cable. | | | | Fiore, or others, or you can search the classifieds and |
| About five years ago, I installed the BBK package. It | | | | piece together a kit. The latter is almost certainly |
| included an adjustable cable, quadrant, and fire wall | | | | cheaper but might not fit into your time contraints. |
| adjuster. Immediately after installation, I noticed that it | | | | Problems with your kit after installation: |
| was much more difficult to engage the clutch than | | | | The number #1 problem that results after installing a |
| before, a problem that only became worse. Recently I | | | | new kit is the cable collapsing or melting. This can result |
| switched back to an OEM cable and immediately the | | | | from several causes. First is improper cable routing. |
| pedal pressure required to engage the clutch dropped. | | | | After coming out of the firewall, the cable needs to be |
| It is because of this incredible difference in pedal | | | | turned around and routed underneath the drivers side |
| pressure that I will never use an adjustable cable again. | | | | motor mount. That's the factory routing. You want the |
| It should also be noted that it is not just the BBK cable | | | | widest "loop" possible, as this will prevent any binding or |
| that will cause this as all adjustable cables are made | | | | operation issues. |
| the same, and many people using a variety of | | | | Another cause can be headers melting the cable. This |
| adjustable cables have complained of the increase | | | | is a problem that can occur with both adjustable and |
| stiffness in their clutch pedal after installing an | | | | non adjustable cables. It can be caused by not |
| adjustable cable. | | | | attaching the cable to the strut tower, or not being able |
| Earlier I mentioned that you must decide between an | | | | to attach the cable to the strut tower. An easy solution |
| adjustable or non adjustable cable due to the quadrant | | | | to this is to drill a new hole for the bracket that holds |
| requirements. This is because some quadrants can | | | | the cable away from your headers, or buy an sn95 |
| only be used with adjustable cables, some only non | | | | clutch cable, it's longer and will allow you to route |
| adjustable cables, and finally there are a few that can | | | | around the headers more easily. Another hot spot that |
| be used with both. Some replacement cables, like the | | | | can occur, seeming to be common with MAC longtube |
| universal cable that maximum motorsports sells has an | | | | headers, is down by the bellhousing. Many people place |
| overall longer length than your stock fox cable but it's | | | | header wrap on one of more of their primary tubes, |
| working length is the same. However, all adjustable | | | | and/or a protector over the cable itself. |
| cables, even if they have the same overall length as | | | | However, if your cable is contacting a primary then |
| your stock cable, have a longer working length than a | | | | you either need to relocate the header tube, or switch |
| non adjustable OEM cable. This is where cable specific | | | | header manufacturers. Wrap will not do anything if |
| quadrants come into play. Most adjustable cable | | | | there isn't an air gap between the cable and the |
| quadrants are 3/8 circle in shape. My old BBK | | | | header. So try to bend the primaries, or cut and re |
| quadrant was like this. If using a non adjustable cable | | | | weld in a new path, a different primary. |
| you'll need one that is 1/4 circle in shape or has multiple | | | | Finally, if you have a heavier clutch and the stock one |
| hooks. This next photo demonstrates this. On the left is | | | | just isn't cutting it, you try upgrading to the heavier and |
| a BBK quadrant made to be used with an adjustable | | | | incredibly durable Hays cable. |
| cable. On the right is a multi hook UPR quadrant. The | | | | So to summarize, make sure your quadrant is |
| farthest throw hook on the UPR piece is made for an | | | | correctly matched with the type of cable you are |
| adjustable cable while the middle hook is used for a | | | | using, adjustable cables increase the amount of pedal |
| standard cable. The shortest throw hook is used to | | | | pressure needed due to drag, firewall adjusters are |
| get around the patent that Steeda has on two hook | | | | nothing special, so just get one, and then route and |
| quadrants. | | | | properly protect your cable when installing. I've tried to |
| You can attempt to hook a standard working length | | | | make this as complete as possible, but if you feel that I |
| cable up to a quadrant that's designed for an | | | | have given bad information, or if I missed something, |
| adjustable cable, and it will "work" if you need to get | | | | please feel free to contact me. |
| the car home. However, you'll have to pry the clutch | | | | |